Poodle Information

Poodle Grooming Styles

Buying A Poodle

How To Evaluate A Breeder

The Ethical Breeder

What Is A Pedigree?

POODLE GROOMING STYLES

 

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 BUYING A POODLE

The Poodle is one of the most popular breeds of dogs. Poodles are highly intelligent, adaptable and have a remarkable sense of humour. They come in three sizes, many colours, don't shed and are tolerated by many allergy sufferers. With so many wonderful qualities, it is easy to understand why the Poodle has so many admirers.

According to breed scholars, the Poodle's origins most likely took place in Germany where it was known as PUDELIN (meaning "to splash") because of its love of water. It was the French, however, who honored the dog -at home, in court circles and on the battlefield thus earning the dog the popular, but incorrect title, "French Poodle".

THE TOY POODLE

Of the three varieties, the Toy is the smallest. It is popular with apartment owners, retired people who enjoy traveling with their pet and those who prefer a very small dog. By definition, the Toy Poodle should not be taller than 11" at the shoulder. There is also no such thing as a registered Teacup Toy Poodle. This term is used as a marketing gimmick to imply that your puppy will be extra small. Any Poodle which is 11 inches or under at the shoulders is called a Toy Poodle. The very tiny dogs often have serious health problems, which is the reason they are so small.

THE MINIATURE POODLE

The Miniature Poodle is the medium size variety. Ideally not taller than 15" at the shoulder, this sturdy size is small enough to suit apartment living and large enough to be a rough and tumble child's companion.

THE STANDARD POODLE

The Standard Poodle has no upper height restriction although the majority are usually between 23" and 27" at the shoulder, with females leaning towards the lower end of the range. The Standard, originally a water retriever, is now enjoying a myriad of roles; hospital therapy dog, hunting dog and loyal companion. He is ideal for those individuals who prefer a larger dog. There is no such thing as a registered Royal Standard Poodle. The term is used as a marketing gimmick to imply that your puppy will grow extra large.

DON'T BUY ON IMPULSE

Buying a dog SHOULD NOT be done on impulse. Learn as much as you can about the breed in which you are interested. Every breed has advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of Owning a Poodle

*Three sizes from which to choose
*Highly intelligent and adaptable
*Delightful, clever temperament
*People oriented
*Non-shedding
*Breed of choice for many allergy sufferers
*Many colours from which to choose

Disadvantages of Owning a Poodle
*Demands grooming on a regular basis
*The Toy variety can be fragile and may not be suitable in homes with very young children.

HEALTH CONSIDERATIONS

There are hereditary health problems in ALL breeds of dogs. Below are some of the more common hereditary health problems in each variety of Poodle.

The following genetic disorders have been diagnosed in all three Poodle varieties: hip dysplasia, PRA and cataracts (leading to blindness), epilepsy (seizures), and inflammatory bowel disease.

The Toy Poodle may also have loose stifles (knee caps) [known as luxating patella] and Legg-Perthe's Disease (disease of the hip joint).

The Miniature Poodle may have knee, hip, eye and thyroid problems.

The Standard Poodle may be subject to gastric torsion/bloat, von Willebrand's Disease, sebaceous adenitis (skin disorder) and autoimmune problems such as Addison's Disease and autoimmune hemolytic anemia.
 

Through research DNA tests are being developed to help in identification of the genes which produce some of these diseases. There are currently tests for von Willebrand's disease and progressive retinal atrophy. Tests are near to identify the gene for Addison's disease, epilepsy, hip displasia and others.


A written report should be furnished by the breeder upon request with the results of x-rays, blood tests, eye examinations and punch skin biopsies for the sire and the dam of the puppy.
Responsible, conscientious breeders screen all breeding stock for hereditary health problems for which we have testing available prior to utilizing ANY dog in a breeding program and are delighted to answer any questions about the health of the puppy's sire and dam.
However, even when the sire and dam have been tested and found free of specific hereditary health problems, there is no iron-clad assurance that the puppy will not develop one of these problems. (This is the nature of biology). Buying a puppy from a breeder who tests breeding stock considerably increases your chances of getting a healthy puppy.

SHOW QUALITY VERSUS PET QUALITY
A show quality puppy is one which, in the breeder's opinion, should be able to become a champion. A pet quality puppy is less likely, in the breeder's estimation, to become a champion. However, when buying a puppy (8 weeks to 16 weeks), trying to guess what that puppy will look like when it is an adult is just that...a guess.
A pet quality puppy is one that has a minor fault which would disqualify it from being shown; i.e., a white spot on the chest (or elsewhere), only one descended testicle, oversize or undersize Toys or Miniatures, or an improper bite.
However, the feature(s) which disqualify these puppies from the show ring will, in no way, affect their ability to be a wonderful companion.

Most pet quality puppies are sold with the ANKC's limited registration form and spay/neuter contracts. The limited registration form is a simple way of saying that although your pet is an ANKC registered pure-bred dog, it cannot be bred. And if it is bred, the offspring cannot be registered with the Australian National Kennel Club. Using this form is the breeder's way of ensuring that the puppy will not be bred and pass along the disqualifying feature to future generations. Neutering your dog also increases its chances of leading a longer, healthier and happier life.

 

GUARANTEES/CONTRACTS

What should you expect in writing from the breeder?
The ANKC registration papers (At least a three generation pedigree)
Copies of the test results of genetic screening for health problems of the sire and dam
Copies of applicable testing done on the puppy
A printed contract including:
-Health guarantee
-A timeframe (2 days to a week) to determine if the puppy will fit the buyer's household
-A time period for the buyer to secure a veterinary check (24 48 hours)
-A statement of the breeder's refund/return policy
-Feeding instructions
-Vaccination and worming schedule - when given and when due - and what products were used

Many breeders provide pictures of the sire and dam, photos of the entire litter, and puppy manuals which give housebreaking hints, training advice and information on health. These are an added bonus but not absolutely necessary. A small quantity of puppy's food-enough to last for several day-is helpful.

SHIPPING THE PUPPY

Many puppies are shipped safely by air or ground transportation to their new homes. The puppy buyer is responsible for the cost of the shipping and shipping crate. Many breeders may ship the puppy in a "loaner crate" which the buyer must send back to the breeder ASAP. If the buyer chooses to return the puppy for any reason, the cost of the return shipping is the responsibility of the buyer.

Recommended Reading
The New Complete Poodle by Mackey J. Irick, Jr.
The Book of the Poodle by Anna Katharine Nicholas
How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend by the Monks of the New Skete
Poodle Clipping and Grooming by Shirley Kalstone
Training You To Train Your Dog by Blanche Saunders
Mother Knows Best by Carol Lea Benjamln

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How To Evaluate A Breeder

The reputable breeder feels responsibility toward the breed itself, toward the dogs he breeds and to the people who have dogs of his breeding. He spends astounding amounts of his time and money on matters he thinks are for the best interests of his breed.

It is this awareness of responsibility that marks the difference between the true breeder and mere "puppy-raiser". The breeder is an artist, motivated by a drive to create perfection; the puppy raisers and the dog dealers are motivated by the desire to make money.

Fortunate is the novice-buyer who purchases his first dog from a reputable breeder! Whereas a puppy-raiser may sell whole litters to dog dealers, the breeder insists on direct contact with those who buy his dogs, and sells only after the most careful screening of a would be purchaser in order to ascertain the mutual suitability of dog and buyer.

While often not fully appreciated until AFTER the dog is bought, this screening by the breeder is the greatest protection a dog purchaser can have.

Though the cost of properly caring for his dogs may cause him sleepless nights and untold worries, the reputable breeder will never let a single puppy or older dog leave for a home that is not as good or better than the one he is providing. Even when the dog is sold, the breeder's help and advice do not end but continue throughout the dog's life, a responsibility cheerfully accepted by him without expectation of compensation.

When selecting a puppy, the reputable breeder will show you a copy of the pedigree and explain why they selected the bloodlines they used. He will allow you to see the puppies and the mother and assist you in selecting the proper puppy to meet your needs.
(Author-Unknown)

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The Ethical Breeder

1. Carefully interviews prospective buyers and has specific requirements that prospective owners must meet, such as spaying and neutering pets, housing the dog in an enclosed yard, agreeing to never let the dog off lead in an unenclosed area

2. Sells by contract

3. Sells puppies with a health guarantee

4. Insists upon getting the dog back if the buyer is no longer able to keep the dog

5. Does not have more litters than he can keep well groomed and well socialized

6. Does not have more litters than he can keep housed long-term if he is unable to sell the puppies

7. Spends individual time with each dog under his care every day

8. Tests his breeding stock for known hereditary diseases and then breeds with the aim of decreasing the incidence of hereditary diseases

9. Is very concerned with producing puppies with excellent temperaments as well as health

10. Can identify each puppy and chart it's growth and development from birth onward

11. Is willing to help educate the novice buyer and happily answers any and all questions about his breed and his individual dogs

12. Is willing and able to show the prospective buyer the health certificates and test results on the sire and dam of the puppies

13. Wants to be informed of any health or temperament problems that his puppies develop through out the lifetime of each puppy

14. Is available for help, advice, and education to the buyer through out the life time of the puppy

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What Is a Pedigree?

"He has a pedigree a mile long!" exclaimed the owner of the dog wagging his tail next to me. Most people are justifiably proud of that large, mysterious piece of paper with a list of strange sounding names, some of them outlined in red ink. What exactly is this paper that seems so impressive? What does it really mean?

Very simply, a pedigree is a record of your dog's ancestors - sire (father), dam (mother), grandsire, granddam, great-grandsire and so forth. Every creature - animal, plant or human - has a pedigree. Unless someone takes the trouble to write it down and keep track of it, the information is lost in the mists of memory and time.

The Australian National Kennel Club and other animal registries are designed to keep track of pedigrees. For a small "registration" fee, the ANKC will record your dog's name and pedigree information. The ANKC registration certificate you received for your dog means that its information is kept on file in the ANKC's records. For another fee, the ANKC will provide you with a pedigree - a listing of the information they've kept on your dog's registered ancestors.

The ANKC records your dog's name, color, sex, parentage, date of birth, breeder and owner and any titles the dog has won in ANKC sanctioned shows, obedience or performance trials. When applying for registration, the ANKC relies on breeders and owners to be honest. If the breeder of your dog has given the ANKC false information, your dog's pedigree may not be correct. Unfortunately, it is hard to verify all of this information individually. Unless you personally know and trust your dog's breeder, you really have no way of knowing if your dog is really the one recorded on his papers!

What a pedigree doesn't tell you is very important! Any purebred dog who meets the ANKC's requirements for registration may be registered and receive "papers". The papers can't tell you if the dog is of good quality or if it even looks like the breed it is supposed to be. All it can tell you is that the dog is registered and his records are kept on file. Most people misunderstand this important point! Many, many poor quality dogs are ANKC registered. You can't judge a dog's quality from looking at only his registration papers or pedigree.

With this in mind, you now know that a pedigree can only tell you who your dog's ancestors were - it can't tell you if they were of good quality, what they looked like or whether they may have had inherited health or temperament problems that they passed on to their descendants.

If your dog serves you well as a pet and companion, you may not care about finding out more about his family. If you intend to breed or show your dog, however, getting accurate informaton about his background is crucial! You'll need to do much, much more than just memorize the names on his pedigree.

To find out more about the dogs in the pedigree, you should visit your dog's breeder to see his sire and dam firsthand. The breeder should be able to tell you where to find your dog's grandparents as well. For information on dogs further back in the pedigree, you may have to resort to books and magazines about your breed. Contact the national breed club to find veteran breeders who can give you the history on dogs now deceased. Pictures can only give you part of the story. You need to talk to people who have first hand knowledge of what the dogs were really like.

What does CH. mean? CH. is the abbreviation for Champion, a
title that makes everyone's heart beat a little faster! A pedigree filled with champions, their names written in red ink, is an impressive sight indeed.

A champion is a dog who has defeated enough other dogs at sanctioned shows to win the required number of points to achieve the title. The required number of dogs to be defeated varies for each breed and different sections of the country. It can be easier to achieve the title in some breeds than others.

Is a champion a dog of exceptional quality? Sometimes - and sometimes not. A champion is only as good as the competition he beats. In areas where the competition is poor, a champion may be just slightly above average for his breed. He may not be able to achieve his title in places where the competition is tougher. Having the title doesn't tell you whether he actually deserved it.

A championship title also can't tell you if the dog was good breeding stock or if he/she had inherited defects that were passed on to its puppies. Only first hand knowledge from people that actually knew the dog can tell you that.

In short, a pedigree is a tool to help breeders produce better dogs. It is a starting point for research. A pedigree by itself doesn't mean much. Without knowing what the dogs in the pedigree were really like, a pedigree is just an impressive list of names!

 

 

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